Christmas in the Kitchen

     Good afternoon, friends! Merry Christmas Eve, and a happy whatever-holiday-you-celebrate-this-time-of-year!
     I’m writing this from my girlfriends kitchen in Haddon Heights. Her mother is sitting and listening to NPR while knitting, while my girlfriend has just recently un-banished me from the living room where she is wrapping presents.
     I’m also typing this while I wait for my focaccia dough to proof, and debate what dessert I can make for us all to have this Christmas Eve (perhaps something to go with the boozy eggnog we currently have sitting in the fridge?)

    It’s been a while since I really had an experience like this around the holidays. I’ve spent the last few months in a frantic haze- finishing school, baking cakes, arranging my schedule and so on- so this quiet, meditative moment comes as a welcome relief. The fact that I am feeling this meditative lull while baking bread is not lost on me, and reminds me of one of my favorite baking quotes-

“[Breadbaking is] one of those almost hypnotic businesses, like a dance from some ancient ceremony.  It leaves you filled with one of the world’s sweetest smells… there is no chiropractic treatment, no Yoga exercise, no hour of meditation in a music-throbbing chapel, that will leave you emptier of bad thoughts than this homely ceremony of making bread.”  ~M.F.K. Fisher


     In my previous post, I expressed my feelings about how the holiday season can encourage us to treat others. Baking bread, I feel, is a perfect example of how this holiday season should encourage us to treat ourselves.
Breadbaking is at once a simple and complicated business. A time-consuming activity that provides a lot of down time, an enterprise in which one person works and orchestrates, but all can share.
    Sitting a few feet from me, my dough proofs. The work was mine. The thought and planning for it were mine. This rest I enjoy while my dough does it’s thing is also mine- but the results will be shared with everyone.

     As easy as it is to get wrapped up in getting for others, giving for others, buying for others, doing for others- every part of that can (and should) consist of just a little wholesome selfishness. My girlfriend and her family will love the focaccia, but I will also have enjoyed baking it, and this quiet peace as it proofs. There is another saying that I love- “An artist earns themselves three blessings- the first is in the work, the second is in the completion, and the third is in giving it away.”

To all my friends out there, I wish you a splendid holiday season. I wish you happy baking, happy work, and happy results.

Stay warm, and

Stay Classy,

-BHB

Hachnasat Orechim

     Good afternoon, all! As I’m typing this, I’m camped out in a Starbucks in Philadelphia, PA. It is biting cold outside, so I’m nursing a hot cup of Earl Grey. After I ordered, the barista smiled and said, “You’re an adventurer.”

“Adventurer? How do you know?” I asked with a bemused smirk.

She shrugged, “You just give off that air, and you ordered an Earl Grey.”

Off-topic? Not exactly.
This was more than kindness and levity with a customer- it was humanity. Especially around this time of year, whether or not one celebrates any holidays in particular, I’ve noticed people start to either compress and disguise their humanity or they put it out on display.

Perhaps it’s the chilly weather of this time of year, reminding some primitive, animal part of us of the necessity to huddle together for warmth.
Perhaps in the proximity of New Year’s, and we band together to recognize the incessant march of time- whether we see it as having survived another year, having lost another year on our way to the grave, or- in the best case- we see it as having lived another year and grown one year wiser.

As I hopped on the PATCO train into the city, I got one with a group of quiet fellow travelers, all of us keeping very much to ourselves to the next stop. At the next stop, a massive group of travelers came on board, including at least 6 very loud children and 5 very loud and excited adults. They were apparently on their way to a light show- a family tradition for them this time of year. At once, I could have imagined that most of my quiet companions would be irritated at the sudden raucous noise. Instead, as I looked around, I realized we were all showing the same knowing glance and smile, silently saying “Awww… what a happy family, traveling all together. It’s like a Lifetime movie!”

Chance smiles and words create warmth. I never met any of those people before, and probably never will again- but for 10 minutes, we were companions.

The title of this entry is Hebrew (written as “הכנסת אורחים.”) It is one of the 613 mitzvot (commandments enumerated in the Torah,) and literally means “inviting guests” or, colloquially “hospitality.” The commandment came from a time when companionship and kindness from strangers was not just something mannerly, it was vital to survival. It was no unusual act of kindness to give a stranger aid, or food, or a place to stay the night- it was a fact of civilization, as much of a commonplace rule as stopping for a red light.

This time of year, time, weather, mortality, religion, and society tries to nudge us toward remembering this. I’ve said before and again that feeding people is more than nourishment- it is a social interplay, and a meeting of humanity. As my great grandparents would say, “Hospitality is a form of worship.”

This time of year, in between the movie marathons, Road Warrior on the highways trying to get home, and last-minute dashes to engage in an orgy of gift buying- stop somewhere, sit awhile, and just have a kind word and smile for people.

And mean it.

See what happens- you’ll love it.

Stay Classy,

Thanksgiving Photodump, Playing Catch-up, and a taste of something simple

Good afternoon, dear friends and gentle readers! Happy Thanksgiving! Here’s hoping your meal was festive and sating- gustatorially, mentally, emotionally, and spiritually.

I apologize for the radio silence of the last few weeks- the past month has been pretty crammed with events personal and professional.

As amends, I offer- what else? Food porn.

Egyptian Cookies

Egyptian Tea Cookies- light, crispy, crumbly, and melt-in-your-mouth good!

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Gotta have shortbreads! Roasted Apple Chai on top, Chocolate Espresso on the bottom (or what remained of them!)

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Last but not least- Sea Salt Caramel Caracas Tart! A golden short crust filled with rich and smooth sea salt caramel, topped with velvety chocolate ganache (dosed with rum, of course!)

I’ll give you a few minutes to finish drooling.

….

There we go.

Apart from Thanksgiving festivities, the month has had me rather distracted with finishing school and filling the odd order here and there (by the by, holiday season is upon us! Take shelter and order a pie!)

Experimentation time has been cut somewhat since school has started, but there’s opportunity everywhere if you know where to look. I happened to look directly at my awesome friend Joe when she opened her house for a pub night.

My friend Joe’s house, affectionately called the “Pub House”, is a beautiful little 1920s manor tucked in one small corner of a fiveway intersection. Over the course of years, Joe slowly converted one small wing of the house into her own private pub which she opens up to friends periodically, making a wonderful impromptu salon of an evening. Her friends include travelers, gourmands, homebrewers, bicycle shop owners, musicians, qi-gong and reiki healers, historians, and others.

And, of course- one baker.

As important as the skill set for being a good host, is the skill set for being a good guest. You call ahead, you according yourself appropriately, you do not invite yourself, and you never come empty-handed. In Joe’s case, it is understood that donations of food and liquor to the bar are always welcome. So what could I possibly bring on Friday night besides beerbread?

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Mmmmmm…..

Inspired by the season, this beerbread was a marvelous experiment in flavor, texture, and spice. A wonderfully simple recipe, this bread took advantage of Magic Hat Brewery’s 2013 seasonal, “Seance”- deep, malty, with warming spicy notes and a little hop bitterness appropriate for a autumnal beer. From there, the use of cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and a tablespoon of liquid barley malt lent their warming, complicated flavors to the bread. Using brown sugar over white leant depth, color, and a chewy interior with a crispy crust.

This recipe, however, is not the be all and end all. Basic in the extreme, it is one of the few formulas I know by heart:

Beerbread
Yield- one loaf

Ingredients
1 12oz. bottle of beer
3 cups AP flour
1 tbs salt
1 tbs baking powder
1/2 c sugar
Extra ingredients as you see fit
2 tbs butter (optional)

Method
1. Combine all your dry ingredients in a large bowl. Preheat your oven to 375 F, and grease up and 9″ x 5″ loaf pan.

2. Pour in beer and mix well. The mixture will form more of a thick batter than a dough. That is a appropriate, since this is a quickbread (similar to a muffin.)

3. Pour batter into loaf pan and bake for 55 minutes. If desired, melt the 2 tbs butter and brush on to the top of the loaf with 3 minutes remaining.

4. Let cool briefly in pan, then remove. Serve the same day if possible.

This recipe is marvelous because you can do almost anything you like with it.  My suggestion is to start by tasting some of the beer and look for particular flavors, then add spices or ingredients that could play off of them. Just be careful not to overload the bread!

That’s about all I’ve got for today. What would you all like to see here in the future? More recipes? Small business know-how? Dining philosophy? Cat pictures? Leave a comment, or shoot me an email at blackhatbakery@gmail.com. As always,

Stay classy,

How do a webcomic, a Greek poem, Robert Service, and Anthony Bourdain apply to Baking?

In this case, they do.

Particularly this one. 


I discovered Gavin Aung’s webcomic Zen Pencils some time ago, since I am rather fond of collecting adages, parables, snippets of wisdom, etc. and Gavin has an elegant, inspiring, and lighthearted way of bringing them to life. This particular comic, based on the poem “Ithaka” by Constantine P. Cavafy, is one of my favorites.

I read this shortly after catching up on an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s show “Parts Unknown.” Anthony Bourdain is something of an icon of mine- not just because I’m a sucker for great travelogues (putting him in the company of Kerouac and Steinbeck), but because he has a very human way of approaching great figures in the culinary world. So many times I read his work or watch his show and find him talking to people like Marco Pierre White, Fergus Henderson, Fernand and Albert Andria, and others- people who have figuratively shaken the world with their work. All in a field that I am barely more than a neophyte in. I look at Bourdain’s work, or Whites, or the Andrias, and sometimes I can’t help but feel absolutely impotent. In a field with people of this genius, creativity, and caliber- many of whom rocked the world with their works when they were around my age- what hope can a small-time baker in Southern New Jersey have of making an impact? 

How can I even imagine that, someday, somehow, I might step out of their shadow and cast my own? 

That is when I remember two things:
1. I remember the poem “Ithaka.” The idea that it’s the journey, not the destination. I am not Marco Pierre White or Albert Andria. Their lives were not mine. The goal of anyone should not be to be the facsimile of someone great, but to be great in one’s own way. Where we end up doesn’t matter nearly so much as how we got there, and what was learned along the way. If I want to be great and famous one day, I will be- but I am in no rush. I still have a lot to learn.

and 2. I remember the following poem by Robert Service.

The Land of Beyond
Have you ever heard of the Land of Beyond, 
 That dream at the gates of the day? 
Alluring it lies at the skirts of the skies, 
 And ever so far away; 
Alluring it calls: O ye yoke of galls,
 And ye of the trails overfond, 
With saddle and pack, by paddle and track, 
 Let’s go to the Land of Beyond! 

 Have ever you stood where the silences brood, 
 And vast the horizons begin, 
At the dawn of the day to behold far away 
 The goal you would strive for and win? 
Yet ah! in the night when you gain to the height, 
 With the vast pool of heaven star-spawned, 
Afar and agleam, like a valley of dream, 
 Still mocks you the Land of Beyond. 

 Thank God! there is always the Land of Beyond 
 For us who are true to the trail; 
A vision to seek, a beckoning peak,
 A fairness that never will fail; 
A proud in our soul that mocks at a goal, 
 A manhood that irks at a bond, 
And try how we will, unattainable still, 
 Behold it, our Land of Beyond! 

The samurai of Japan had a saying- “The only opponent is within.” The culinary industry (indeed, the world) is rife with competition, and there will be winners and losers. There will be people that get the trophy and victory lap at the end, and there will be others that just pack up and leave quietly.
In the end, however, no matter what it is, your only real competition is with yourself.
“Can I do this faster?”
“Can I tweak this formula and make it better?”
“Can I fix how I work so I have more time?”

So I as much as I might dream of one day being like them, I am not Anthony Bourdain, Marco Pierre White, or Albert Andria.

I am me- and my goal is to learn and be the best baker I can, the best person I can, and the best me I can.
All in due time.

Stay cheerful, and

Stay classy,

What Do You Bring To The Table?

     Good afternoon, my friends! 
     
      I apologize for this post being late, but for the longest time yesterday I was debating what to write about. My schedule hasn’t opened up enough where I can document making fondant and marzipan like I promised (I’ll get around to it though!), and I was really kind of lost as to what I felt needed to be said, but hadn’t yet.
     As I type this, I’m sitting in a South Jersey Starbucks, sipping some Earl Grey (yes, it’s plain, and no I don’t go for fancy coffee drinks.) Yesterday afternoon was spent similarly, except that I was sharing my table with an old friend of mine, her boyfriend, and her boyfriend’s sister.
     It was during this afternoon that today’s topic sprang upon me as not only something that HAS been said before, but needs to be repeated, and shared at a personal level.

  

This particular friend of mine and I haven’t seen each other in some months. We don’t live terribly far away from each other, but we simply have conflicting schedules. One thing any young adult can tell you is that, while technology may shrink distances, conflicting schedules extend them. As of yesterday, however, the planets aligned: I was free, and she was bored and in the dumps. Sounds like coffee time.

     Meeting up in the coffee shop, we proceeded to laugh, joke, and share news of what’s been going on in each other’s lives (apart from what makes it on to Facebook.) Her boyfriend and his sister arrived, we exchanged greetings, and chatted for a while.

    Then it happened.

     Had I been more cynical, I might have been counting down to it’s occurrence.

     Everyone took out their cell phones, and conversation stopped.

—————

     I will break here to make a point. I am not a Luddite. I love technology. I have a Facebook, a Twitter, and a blog (thanks for reading, by the way!) In the old days, I even had a MySpace and a Livejournal. I will even freely admit that I do not blog/twitter/post as much as I should (particularly as a small business looking to make social media work for him.

     My issue here is not about people being too connected. It’s not even about people connecting in the “wrong way.” There IS no wrong way to connect with others, as long as no one is harmed or brought to grief.

     My issue is about people’s use of time. In this case, I was sitting at a table for the first time with an old friend I had not seen or spoken to in some months, her boyfriend with whom I rarely speak, and his sister whom I meeting for the first time. This was an opportunity for us to catch up, share jokes, and laugh. This was an opportunity to talk to a new person that I knew nothing about, and who knew next to nothing about me (at least not firsthand.)

    Instead, everyone was looking at their phones, poking through Facebook.

    While this would be annoying at any time, I suppose I was struck by the irony of it being at a table with food.

     Food with people, for me, has always been more of a social function than a strictly biological one. Many of my fondest childhood memories are centered around food, and particularly family dinners. My parents would impress on me basic table etiquette- 
“No toys at the table.”
“No reading at the dinner table.”
“Say ‘please’ and ‘thank you’, and ask for things to be passed instead of reaching.”
There are wonderful warm memories of gathering around my grandmothers table for holiday dinners- the whole family laughing, swapping stories and jokes, and discussing vital matters of the day.

Meals have been a cornerstone of family social life for millennia- whether gathering around the campfire, the hearth, the kitchen table, or a long table at a fine restaurant, eating has long been associated with enjoying people’s company. Some of my happiest times recently are Sunday nights- I visit my girlfriend, and we make dinner together for the two of us and her mother. We sit, eat, talk, and most frequently, laugh.

Now, when I go out with my family to dinner, I can almost count down to the exact moment when conversation ceases and everyone pulls out their phones. They are checking Facebook, checking Twitter, playing games, doing anything these wonders of modern technology can do- anything besides sharing your day with the people in front of you.

I do not mean to stand on a soapbox or come across as a grouchy old man, but I can’t help but find the habit of checking one’s internet life at the table somewhat insulting. My motivation in becoming a baker and making food my life WAS that vital intersection of food, space, time, people, and love. I became a baker because I wish for EVERYONE to have those family dinners, those dinners at my grandmothers, and Sunday nights like I share with my girlfriend’s family. This is certainly not a Norman Rockwell world, and I’d be kidding myself if I insisted that everyone shut off all their phones, hold hands, and start singing “Kumbaya.” All I ask is that people today make a conscious effort.

So here is a little challenge for you, my dear readers.
Next time you are at the table, with your family, friends, or whoever, before you take out your phone, pause. Look at the faces around you. You are sharing food with them- an intimate moment. Why suck the life out of this moment? Think to yourself, “Who are these people? Do I truly not have any questions about them? Do I know everything about their lives?” The answer will likely be “no”- put your phone down and speak.

If the answer is “no, and I don’t care”, excuse yourself from the table and find some new people to eat with.
Be warned though- your phone is probably a lousy cook.

Be good to each other, be kind, and- very importantly-

Stay classy,