Things to Remember

Good evening, friends and neighbors!

     Since I’ve been working in kitchens- whether professional, my own, or in school- I’ve slowly been accruing a lot of adages- little nuggets of wisdom that have, frankly, served me well. Tonight, I figured I would share some of these with you. Some are punchy, some are pointed, and some are just plain common sense that we all pretend we don’t have sometimes.

Like previous lists, this one is NOT definitive. I’m not done baking yet, and therefore I have plenty more to learn, so please do not assume I am some grand high all-knowing pastry guru.

That would be some dude living in France.


The BHB’s Words of Wisdom

Fail faster.
I learned this way later in the game than I should have. Instead, I picked it up from the continually excellent YouTube show, Extra Credits. This is the absolute cornerstone of wisdom for anyone who works in any kind of creative field. As soon as you have an idea, start putting it together. Don’t wait for the perfect idea- it will not appear. Make test batch after test batch after test batch and take notes on every part of it. This is how you make something great- there is no shortcut.

 Products taste better than ideas, but nothing tastes better than memories. 
This goes hand in hand with Fail Faster, and folds two important ideas into one. Pitching a new dessert or dish with words is difficult. You can’t taste words. The person you are pitching them to knows how THEY taste those things. Fail Faster, and present your idea along with a test batch to put under their nose. If they hate it, work on it. If they love it, marvelous- work on it later. The second part is important for anytime someone asks you to make something they had “long ago” or “like their mom/dad/grandma/etc. used to make.” Saying you can is a death sentence and a lie. You cannot. The memory they have is pristine and perfect, and you have NO chance of comparing to it. The best you can do is offer what you have, and ask if that’s close. 

 The big night is not the time to try something new. 
Some common sense that I was reminded of the hard way, more than once. I’ve gotten… less than stellar marks on final exams because I was overeager, overproud, and really wanted to show off how clever I was by doing something I’d never done before, and- predictably- did it miserably.  Experiment and have fun when you have the time and lea-way to do so. For a big dinner, a big contract, or a big ANYTHING, stick with something you know inside out, backwards, upside down, and can do in your sleep- and do it perfectly.

 Simplicity, with elegance. 
I mentioned this in a few other posts- this is my personal mantra for creating desserts. A simple dish, done uncommonly well, can mean more and have greater impact on a dinner that the most extravagant plated work. 

 Classics are classics for a reason.  
Once again, simplicity. Classic combinations and desserts have stood the test of time for a reason. People love them. They work together. Yes, every diner has New York Cheesecake with fruit on top, or apple pie a la mode. Yes, chocolate and mint go well together. Shake them up if you want, or turn them on their head. Deconstruct them, reconstruct them, or de-re-de-re-de-reconstruct them- when when it comes down to what people know and love, these are your standbys. Speaking of which….

If you want the fruit off the tree, take care of the roots. 
The old saying goes “You can’t know where you are going if you don’t know where you’ve been.” Any artist who has bold new ideas and creates the novel and exciting is well-steeped in what has come before. Their mental galleries are vast and well-curated. They have a deep and profound love for everything that came before them- and that is what they build one. You cannot but do the same.

 Proper prior planning prevents poor performance. (a.k.a., The 6 P’s)
Heard everywhere, in many situations and fields. It’s still true. Clean your kitchen. Make sure all your equipment is clean and functional. If you are going to multi-task, know your timeline, and for the love of all that is holy, MISE EN PLACE, MISE EN PLACE, MISE EN PLACE.

Use all 5 senses.
When you bake, this is an absolute must. Pay attention, and your product will talk to you the entire time, so your final result isn’t a surprise. Does your batter feel to liquidy? How about that crust- is it not as brown as it should be? Hmmm.. the smell of baking cookies- they must all be done. The hollow thump of a tap on the bottom of a bread load tells you it’s done.  

Don’t assume everyone you work with does their job right/ all the time. 
If you work in a professional kitchen, it’s a team effort. You will have to work with, around, and alongside others. You will depend on the work of others, and vice versa. Just because something isn’t your “job,” however, doesn’t mean you don’t do it. One person slipping up can send the careful choreography of a kitchen into chaos if the rest of the team doesn’t catch it. Count on others, but be aware of them as well.

 Why kill yourself? 
Rhetorical question. Whoever said that doing things the hard way builds character clearly had spare knees and spines at home and a death wish. There ARE somethings where using a more difficult method (hand mixing instead of using a stand-mixer, for example) can lead to better results. In general, though, culinary arts is an extremely physical field, and will put your body through the wringer if you use it wrong. Set up your station with a mind to how your work will “flow”- from materials to end result. Keep everything close, or at least in arms-reach. Look for small ways to make your manual labors faster, easier, and more fluid.

 If you’re standing in the kitchen doing nothing, you’re either forgetting something, just visiting, or trying to get fired.
THE big piece of advice for any professional kitchen. There is ALWAYS something to be doing. 


I will likely add more to this list as I think of it- or learn it myself. Have I missed anything? Leave your own words of wisdom in the comments!

Stay classy,

My Hometown

Good evening, friends and neighbors! 

There are places we all go to that seem to defy nostalgia. As much as we want to remember them fondly, it seems like the rose-tinted glasses just keep falling off when we really look back. We remember the good things, we miss them, but there’s just too many memories that make us sad or angry wrapped up in the place that keep us from ever really feeling a part of there again.

I spent the past week in such a place- my hometown on the South Jersey Shore.

The first morning I woke up in my family’s house- the house I lived in from ages 4 to almost 24- I looked out of the window and just tried to process it before breakfast.

I quickly realized this was a mistake, and that I needed to eat first.

Down in the kitchen, as I was whipping up the simple breakfast of scrambled eggs, cheese, sausage, and tea, I got back to thinking.
I don’t believe I ever truly belonged in this community. School days around here were not the happiest- I had few to no friends, I was picked on regularly, and our neighborhood had no kids my age anyway. We lived close to a beach block, so most of the houses around us were vacation homes, standing like hollow shells for most of the year.

The town is small enough that you could bike or walk virtually anywhere in about 30 minutes, but I don’t really remember it having the “small town” vibe, where everyone knows everyone else. Part of that might be the aforementioned vacation homes (half the city’s residence not being present most of the year), and partly the demographic- if you were to imagine a gated community without fences or gates, and the size of a city, that would be a pretty good idea of the people.

That night, when I came home to the big, empty house after work, I had an urge to go for a beer and write. I asked local friends where a good walking distance bar was (alas, another sad fact- this is my hometown, but I didn’t start drinking here, so I had no “local.”) Many of them suggested places a ways outside the city, insisting there were no really decent bars in the town itself.

All the same, I needed a walk, followed by beer, followed by a quietish place to write. So I picked a bar at random and walked to it.

Here I got my first slight hint that perhaps, just perhaps, there was something homey left for me in my hometown.

I walked into the small bar by the bay, clearly full of a history I had no part in, and much of which is likely no longer talked about. I sat down, ordered a beer, and was just about to start writing when I heard my name called out and a hand on my shoulder. They belonged to Peggy, an old friend of mine from grade school whom I hadn’t seen in nearly 5 years. This bar was apparently her favorite hangout when she was home. The evening lasted several hours longer than I had expected as we chatted, caught up, and had a good time. I won’t say the years seemed to melt away- we are both very different people than we were when we were kids, but it was good to know that the two people we had become could enjoy each other’s friendship and company.

The next day, I remembered something else I had missed about living in this town- the presence of the beach. Before work one morning, I woke up early, ate breakfast, and took a long walk- first along the street, but for the way back, I pulled off my socks and shoes and walked home along the beach.

God, I had missed the feel of sand and saltwater on my skin. The sea was frigid cold (as it IS still early April), but the sand was cold, wet, and firm. I didn’t mind that I knew no faces on the walk, or that few people even acknowledged each other, or said “good morning.” For that morning, the sea, sand, and the smell of the beach was all I required. 

In an hour or so, I’ll have my car loaded and I’ll be returning back to my current home in the Pine Barrens- where I’ve made new friends, have a “spot” at the local bar I love where I sit and write, and where people are increasingly learning my name and face.

For one week, though, I was here- the home before I was home. Where all the formative years happened that I’ve bounced between trying to forget, and trying to cling to. 
There are many places and stages in our lives that we enjoy that strange, complicated dance with. You know what? That’s alright. No one needs to have “glory days”, or fond remembrances of their “old stomping grounds.” They weren’t always good, but they are roots, and like it or not, we left footprints there- no matter how many layers of dust sit in them.

Perhaps you can go home again, but bear in mind places change too.

Stay classy,

-The BHB

Eye of the Storm

Picture

Good evening, friends and neighbors!

 As I write this, I’m sitting in the central court of Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia, PA. I dearly love coming here. It feels like a microcosm of the wild, manic city it’s nestled in. All around me are people from all walks of life- youth groups on tour, oohing and ahhing at every little thing,

 professionals taking late lunch breaks before hustling back to the office, 

husbands and wives doing their grocery shopping,

 and, of course, in the background, the men and women who call this place their office- the ones who spend between 8 and 12 hours everyday making sure this place is just as remarkable, wild, and exciting as it is. 


 Writing is sometimes an awkward thing. I sat down three times this weekend, determined to write SOMETHING for this blog. Three times I sat down in placid surroundings- quiet, calm, and nothing to distract. It was only here, however, amidst the noise and manic choreography of a marketplace that I felt I had something to write about.  

From where I’m sitting, I can see stalls offering foods and cuisines from around the world. There’s a stall that specializes ONLY in honey, bee, and beeswax products. There’s a small bookstall on the other side of it that only sells cookbooks, but far to the back corner of this cavernous space is another bookseller peddling the odd, unusual, and rare. For some reason, “Portabello Road” from “Bedknobs and Broomsticks” runs through my head when I walk past there. 

I’ve just picked up some delicious fruit from one of the produce stalls in the market- a red plum and a tiny Seckels pear. I’ve pulled out my Swiss Army knife here before (an unwise move in ANY city these days), and casually carved slices of juicy pear and apple with my girlfriend, feeding us directly from the blade. No one bats an eye. 

This is starting to sound like something I could sell to the Philadelphia tourism board, I know, but there is a point. No matter where you go, where you travel or when, markets and marketplaces are a fast track to the heart and soul of a community. You can see what people like, what they don’t like, and what they are eating all at a glance. A glance hardly does justice, of course. As Hunter S. Thompson said, “Buy the ticket- take the ride.”

When you can come to one place and try Greek, Mediterranean, Halal, kosher deli, Cajun Creole, fine salumi and cheeses, Chinese, and German cuisines, how can anyone NOT take advantage of this? I can’t decide whether I envy or weep for anyone who takes a place like this for granted. The world is an amazing place- full of life and light and flavors that many in America many never know or experience. When you have a place like this, where you can try ALL of it, a mere train ride away, you truly have no excuses. 

Stay open, my friends. 
Stay hungry. 
Stay adventurous. 
And, as always- 

Stay Classy,

Garbage In, Garbage Out

Good evening, friends and neighbors! 

I’m willing to bet everyone has heard the aphorism I picked for the title of this entry in one way or another. “You get out what you put in.” “You get what you give.” “If you want the best, use the best.” 
Obviously it applies to your work, your relationships, your hobbies, your lifestyle- virtually everything (food and baking in particular!)

It applies to your mind too. I’ve mentioned in a previous post about how artists build up a mental gallery, comprised of everything in a given medium they’ve ever experienced. Painters recall their favorite works, poets their favorite poems, cooks and bakers their favorite dishes. From these elements, they draw inspiration to create what’s new.

It follows then: if your gallery is filled with asinine crap, what can you possibly put out? The only thing you can get out of bad examples is dire warnings. Good musicians seek out the work of other good musicians. Good writers read good books, and culinarians should eat good food.

As I was thinking of what to write for this entry, my eyes wandered around my bedroom and fell on my bookshelves. I read quite a lot, and very varied subjects- religion and philosophy (comparative theology was an interest for much of my life), psychology (my BA degree), poetry, fiction, biographies, epics, and- of course- my cookbooks and food texts.

Much of what I know and do is not just due to personal experience and education- formal, tangential, and otherwise,- but also to the sheer amount of information and quality of work I had chosen to surround and bombard myself with.
Here are some of my favorites. The list nowhere near definitive, but for anyone out there that wants to build a mental gallery of their own- or just have some interesting material to hang in it, I highly recommend these as a starting point.

The BHB’s Book List

  • Kitchen Confidential, Medium Raw, and The Nasty Bits by Anthony Bourdain
  • So, you want to be a professional cook? Dream of getting paid to make magic in the kitchen of some big city bistro? Here’s real talk- Bourdain spent 25 years in the culinary world, and has no problem telling you what it’s really like. When your done with that, he tells you what it’s like to travel the world- talking to people and eating food you’ve only ever seen on TV. If you STILL want to be a cook after all that, you’re just crazy enough to do it.

  • The Joy of Cooking by Marion Rombauer Becker, et al

There is a reason a copy of this book was in your mother’s kitchen. And your grandmothers. And probably her mother’s too. It is a timeless and indispensable guide to the basics of all manner of preparations. It is your encyclopedia.

  • The Elements of Cooking by Michael Ruhlman

If Joy of Cooking is your encyclopedia, meet the index. Ruhlman breaks down the little tips and secrets professional chefs use to make the ordinary into the extraordinary. If you are a student, buy a copy and keep it on you at all times. No recipes here- just know-how.

  • Professional Baking by Wayne Gisslen

This was the first baking textbook I ever got. It still sits on my shelf- an A to Z for everything to do with bread, pastry, or almost anything else to do with putting flour and liquid in an oven. It’s a little bit pricy, but if you’re a baker, it’s a perfect resource.

  • Advanced Bread and Pastry by Michel Suas

Another school textbook, this one focused almost exclusively on the precise science and exquisite art of breadmaking. If you are aware that there is better bread out there than Wonder Bread, that it comes from places beside the supermarket, or if you just want to wail on some dough at the end of the day and eat it later, this is the book you need.

  • How Baking Works: Exploring the Fundamentals of Baking Science by Paula I. Figoni

If you’re like me, it wasn’t just the warm fuzzies of feeding friends and loved ones that drew you to baking, or the pride and accomplishment dervied from working with your hands either. It was the chance to play mad scientist in the kitchen and eat your experiments. This book is the beginner’s science textbook of culinary school- want to know why we use wheat flour over others? Or why apples turn brown so quickly? Or what happens in sourdough that makes it sour? Here’s where you start.

  • Consider the Fork: A History of How We Cook and Eat by Bee Wilson

Here is the history text. Want to know why we use a wok for stir-fry? Or why you can find wooden spoons or something like in almost every kitchen? Feed your inner history nerd and find how how technology changed the food we eat and how we eat it.


In addition to these, I highly suggest the following as well-

  • Your favorite holy book (if religious)

You can’t know where you are going if you don’t know where you’ve been. Study your favorite ancient texts. If you aren’t religious, learn where your family came from and learn everything you can about the culture. You are born with a heritage- the acme of the experience and lives of all your ancestors.  If none of these apply, just pick a culture that fascinates you. Culture is a VAST pool of knowledge and inspiration to draw from, and it’s all yours. Jump in.

  • Your favorite fiction

There is no shame in escaping the real world now and again. Find your favorite fiction, and read it over again. Follow Frodo across Middle Earth. Stand beside Allan Quatermain as he traverses Africa, or stand between two worlds with Harry Potter and his friends. Go on voyages- make sure to bring back everything you’ve learned. When you finish all the books of your favorite author, find out who THEIR favorite authors were, and read their books too. The inspiration for your inspiration… think about it.

  • Your favorite poetry

Yes, I know not everyone likes poetry. Or not everyone gets it. Folks who don’t think they “get” poetry tend to imagine prancing ninnies in tights holding skulls, or turtleneck-laden beatniks wailing on bongos. Real facts? Music is poetry. Song is poetry. Poetry is rhythm, meter, cadence, word choice, intonation, and emotion. It’s speech. Start with whatever you know, and branch from there. My personal favorites include Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, Shel Silverstein, Robert Service, Robert Frost, Walt Whitman, and Langston Hughes. Start with any of them.

Once again, this list was nowhere near exhaustive- but hopefully these will be good resources for you- knowledge, idea fodder, or just something interesting to talk about with friends.
And who doesn’t need more of that?

Stay literate, stay awake, and of course-

Stay Classy,

The BHB

Beauty in the Ordinary

I was working my day job not too long ago, and got into a conversation with one of the other bakers- a talented cake decorator of 20+ years who confesses that, after so many years in the culinary world, she has developed a love/hate relationship with baking. The conversation echoed ones I’ve had with students and professionals alike, with various amounts of scoffing. We were looking at a catalogue from a chocolate decor company, depicting fantastically designed cakes and desserts (using their chocolate elements, of course.)

My friend: “Look at that, how gorgeous is that!?”
Me: “Very pretty. Looks a bit too busy for me, though.”
My friend: “What do you mean, busy? This is art!”
Me: “I never said it wasn’t! Whoever did it clearly has skill, talent, and vision- I just wouldn’t want to eat it.”

I wasn’t lying at all. The picture was of an immaculately conceived wedding cake- pristine flowers of gum paste exploded from the corners. Delicate chocolate work clung to the velvet-smooth sides of the tiers seeming to defy gravity. Flashes of color seemed to dance over the cake, like wisps of flame against a snowy field in a full moon.

It was pristine.
It was exquisite.
It was positively breathtaking.
I didn’t want to eat it.
So, in my opinion, it failed as food.

As I’ve discussed before, very often I’ve been asked by friends and relatives if I didn’t want to have my own show someday, going into a business like Ace of Cakes or Cake Boss, and my lack of desire for such work has been met by various levels of incredulity. I recall one conversation with a relative who was positively exasperated and infuriated when I insisted that I didn’t want to grow my business to such a point that I would no longer have to bake- in his words, where I could “just show up on Monday, collect my check, make sure no one’s hurt themselves, and leave.”
He insisted I was being idealistic and naive. I insisted that he just didn’t “get it.”
In a way, we were both right.

To my mind, food shouldn’t just be beautiful- it should be appetizing. Any outward beauty or elegance should be in service to making the dish whet the appetite- to make that first bite “taken with the eye” utterly intoxicating and addictive. Food is a unique art form in that a vital part of its existence and reason for being is its destruction. Name a single book what was written with the INTENT it should be destroyed. How about a painting? A song written so that it should never be sung by anyone again? It doesn’t exist.
Only food finds its ultimate fulfillment in its moment of destruction.
Food, despite all the meaning and beauty and symbolism we attach to it, is what in the end? S*** in waiting.

What makes food beautiful to me? Three words- “Simplicity, with elegance.”
Put another way, ordinary things done extraordinarily well. 
I want my food to look like food, but I want it to look like EXQUISITE food. For example, can you think of something more plain and ordinary than a pie? They are everywhere- housewives make them. Definitely not something you’d find on the menu of a Michelin Star winning restaurant. 

A pie done with ELEGANCE, however, is something else.
A warm, soothing aroma from the oven that wraps its arms around you like a loving grandmother.
A soft, crackling sound from the crust as it cools and the layers shrink and separate.
The intricate, delicate crimping of the edges- reminiscent of a wreath of flowers, or a hand-sewn lace.
The engaging, golden color and shine, provided by a perfectly mixed eggwash, brushed on the crust at the RIGHT temperature, at the RIGHT time.
Vents, clean and sharp as the knife that created them, offering a peek at the goodness inside.
And finally, the filling- homemade, with the BEST and FRESHEST ingredients, in the PRECISE proportions to create a filling neither too stiff, nor too runny.

Just writing all that made me drool.

It is wonderful, necessary, and desirable to have artistry and skill. But elegance and finesse are something completely different. If you can execute your work with that, even the simplest things can be a work of art.
And they’ll be food.
Food that people want to eat.

Be tasteful,
be elegant,
and of course,

Stay classy,

-BHB